All Things BOXZY *Unofficial*
Register Calendar Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment   Page 1 of 2      1   2   Next
Gary

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 116
Reply with quote  #1 

I didn't want to throw even more loading on the DC power supply so Keenovo is the way I went.

Bed toasty boxzy.jpg 

Self adhesive 6x8 inch heater with relay-based digital controller.

It comes in 110VAC or 220VAC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pyrex-Evaporating-Dish-Vacuum-Purging-Chamber-Heater-6-x8-120V-Digi-Controller-/281676789120?hash=item41953eb580


0
HughFrederick

Member
Registered:
Posts: 57
Reply with quote  #2 
Nice. Is it insulated on one side?
0
Gary

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 116
Reply with quote  #3 
No. I thought it was going to need that but whatever magic 3M adhesive they use conducts heat to the plate very well.  So I am not going to bother insulating it. It goes from 20C to 70C in about 70 seconds. Then I let the whole surface stabilize for a minute or two.
0
Stealth

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #4 
Gary,

Thanks for sharing this. I ordered one this morning. This is a far better implementation than the method recommended in the BoXZY Guide. Which is what I initially did to get a heated bed, but found that it has some severe limitations & was overall just inconvenient based on how it was connected and that binder clips were used to hold it on the aluminum printing bed. My only questions are, how difficult is it to remove from the aluminum bed in case you need to replace it? Also do you still use painters tape when printing or are you printing directly to the bed?
0
Gary

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 116
Reply with quote  #5 

I am using the painter's tape and it is working fine.  You have to change the tape more often because it can get "baked on".  I'm running at 70C. If you go higher, well, I don't know what will happen to the tape.

As far as removing the heater - I'd rather not think about it. I would first look into what solvent would loosen the adhesive and not ruin the silicone.  If the pad didn't have the 3M adhesive on it, other forums suggested using high-temp RTV to adhere the pad to the plate. They also said that it's pretty much a one-way operation and removing the pad destroys it.  I'll bet that the pad itself is not that expensive factoring in the cost of the controller.  The Keenovo people are very friendly and easy to work with so getting a new pad shouldn't be too bad.

0
Stealth

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 12
Reply with quote  #6 
I will contact Keenovo and ask them for specifics on the 3M adhesive they chose to use. There are different qualities of 3M adhesive; some better suited for drastic temperature changes and others less suited. Which over time either become near permanently stuck or lose their sticky properties and begin to fall off. Personally I would prefer the latter because it would be far easier to cleanup and replace. That is really the only reason I was asking. Thanks for the info. Cheers [smile]
0
Drunken Boxzer

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 327
Reply with quote  #7 
it might be pricey, but kapton tape works well at elevated temperatures. It might be worth using that instead of the blue tape.
0
Gary

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 116
Reply with quote  #8 

Yeah. There some easy and not-too-expensive sources for square sheet blue tape and Kapton bed liners on Amazon.com

http://smile.amazon.com/Makerbot-Replicator-Supplies-Painters-Square/dp/B00BGBDJUK

http://smile.amazon.com/Addicore-Kapton-Polyimide-Release-Printer/dp/B00JPTKFRU

I noticed that the Kapton uses PTFE backing. For safety sake, be careful heating PTFE around birds and small children.
That probably applies to melting ABS as well, but I have stayed away from ABS so far.

 

0
HughFrederick

Member
Registered:
Posts: 57
Reply with quote  #9 
Assuming the heater is still working well for you I am going to go ahead and order. As far as tape on the bed goes, after looking through some forums trying to iron out various print issues I came across something saying that the blue tape is good for PLA and the Kapton tape is good for ABS.
0
maz_net_au

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #10 
Hi,
I've found the same pad from the same people on Amazon for anyone who is interested...

http://www.amazon.com/KEENOVO-Silicone-Evaporating-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B00YK31H78/ref=pd_sbs_328_22?ie=UTF8&dpID=51n32W6IZwL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0B0F9CXZME7H7T0ESEE4

It looks like it'll take about 2 months to actually arrive. If you double-sided tape it to the bottom of the build plate, did you add a plug that lets you disconnect it from the digital controller? I feel like permanenty attaching my build plate to my machine with 2ft of cable would get kinda annoying on occasion (like when i'm trying to replace the Kapton tape). Also, did you determine the 8x8" one wouldn't fit, isn't worth it, or just wasn't available at the time? I'm wanted to get into printing ABS in the future and the heated bed and acetone/abs slush solution painted onto the bed have been recommended for getting it to stick better.

Maz
0
rxcited

Avatar / Picture

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #11 

I got the 8x8 500 watt pad without controller and used a relay so the BoXZY can control it.  It is half the cost and twice the power.  Room temp to 100 C in 3 minutes.  Took about 2 weeks for the pad to arrive from overseas.

http://www.amazon.com/thermistor-KEENOVO-Silicone-Printer-HeatBed/dp/B00RLMVBN0
http://www.amazon.com/HM78-12A-S-DC12V-General-Purpose-Power/dp/B00JR6I86G

Bed PID values:
P=2.5, I=0.5, D=10.0

[Keenovo_500W_AC_pad]

[AC_heater_connections]

[pad_installed]

0
Gary

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 116
Reply with quote  #12 

Quote:
Originally Posted by maz_net_au
Hi,
I've found the same pad from the same people on Amazon for anyone who is interested...

http://www.amazon.com/KEENOVO-Silicone-Evaporating-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B00YK31H78/ref=pd_sbs_328_22?ie=UTF8&dpID=51n32W6IZwL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0B0F9CXZME7H7T0ESEE4

It looks like it'll take about 2 months to actually arrive. If you double-sided tape it to the bottom of the build plate, did you add a plug that lets you disconnect it from the digital controller? I feel like permanenty attaching my build plate to my machine with 2ft of cable would get kinda annoying on occasion (like when i'm trying to replace the Kapton tape). Also, did you determine the 8x8" one wouldn't fit, isn't worth it, or just wasn't available at the time? I'm wanted to get into printing ABS in the future and the heated bed and acetone/abs slush solution painted onto the bed have been recommended for getting it to stick better.

Maz


The 8x8 wasn't available when I got mine. The 6x8, heating the 1/4" aluminum plate (which is a great heat spreader) works great.  Also I figured that 6x8 would be fine since the actual print area is 6.5 x 6.5.

I have no problem with the cable length, but I'm using blue tape pads and I don't have to do any soaking, scraping, etc.

0
rxcited

Avatar / Picture

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #13 
I got the square kapton sheets and I have been test printing PLA at 70-80 C bed temp after cleaning with denatured alcohol - no blue tape.  Seems to stick great and pops off when cool.  I have not tried ABS printing with BoXZY yet (I need 1.75 mm ABS filament).

This is one downside I am seeing to BoXZY versus my UM2+.  I have been printing a lot of ABS with that and I really only got good consistent results when I use ABS juice and 100 C bed temp.  (But have not tried kapton with that yet).  Because it uses a glass build plate, I found it incredibly convenient to have spare glass on hand.  I can prep a new build plate with ABS juice, let it cure and be ready to go.  When the previous job finishes, I can take it off while still quite warm holding the glass by the edges and start a new job within a couple minutes max.  I don't see this happening with BoXZY and it takes quite some time for the thick aluminum build plate to cool down.

-- James
0
Gary

Avatar / Picture

Senior Member
Registered:
Posts: 116
Reply with quote  #14 

How about glass on top of the heated aluminum Boxzy plate?  It won't be well coupled, thermally, but the heated area is large enough to make up for it.


PS-

Even though I like your implementation of the heater pad+relay heated bed, I have a hard time trusting the Ardruino/Boxzy when it comes to high wattage/high temperature control.

No, that wasn't a strong enough statement.  At this point I don't trust any of the SW/FW/hardware in the Boxzy to control a 500W heating element. Period.

0
rxcited

Avatar / Picture

Junior Member
Registered:
Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #15 
I agree the BoXZY really has not been ready for prime time. However I can tell you that my bed temperature control has been very impressive. It heats up super quick and locks onto the target very well. There are little baubles when the fan starts and stops, but not huge over swings, just the expected flywheel effect of that thick plate. I think I stumbled onto reasonable PID values for this setup. It is possible I introduced more noise and that is causing my skip problem. I am hopeful if I use shielded wire from the UM board to the relay, that problem will go away...

Edit: I thought about adding glass too. If I need to use it for high turnaround (more production oriented) work, I will probably try that. For now, the BoXZY is (unfortunately) more for tinkering.
0
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.